NOTE: **YOUR FILM WILL DEVELOP IN BLACK AND WHITE, NOT COLOUR**

Before completing these steps, read through them entirely. Note that you will need some extra chemicals, and all steps in this process use chemicals stored at room temperature.

Step 1: Shoot the film (400 speed is best, but these steps will work for any speed from 100-1000).

Step 2: Load your film into a tank, two rolls is fine.

Step 3: Rinse the film in WARM (not HOT, but not COLD. This should be a combination of the two) for 1 minute.

Step 4: Take your usual developing time for B&W film, and add two minutes. This will account for the bleaching we will do later, which lightens the image. (EX: If I usually develop for 6.5min, I would develop for 8.5min when using colour film).  Fill the tank with developer, tap the tank twice to dislodge bubbles, and develop.

Step 5: Dump the developer, and fill the canister with COLD water (ONLY the COLD tap). Empty it immediately.

Step 6: Measure out the fixer, and pour it into the tank. Tap the tank twice, to dislodge bubbles. After you have done this, agitate for 15 seconds, then leave the film fix for 5 minutes without agitating it.

Step 7: Rinse the film, again with WARM water for 15 minutes. Do not use permawash on colour film.

Step 8: Use PhotoFlo or another film cleaner, and hang to dry.

Step 9: Once the film is dry, you need to reload it into the tank.

Step 10: Now you will need potassium ferricyanide/ ferracyanide (depending on where you get it the “ferr-” prefix will be spelled differently, but it is the same chemical). You also need a regular plastic spoon. Keep this with the PFC for measuring. You must also keep the PFC in the dark, as over time it will slowly oxidize.

Step 11: Mix 1 spoonful of PFC with 13.5 ounces of water (for one roll of film), or 2 spoonfuls with 27 ounces of water. This ratio is very important. If the ratio is incorrect, your bleaching times will be different.

Step 12: Pour the PFC into the tank. Set your timer for 3 minutes and 15 seconds, and agitate the film for this entire process. (A good indicator if you are doing things right is if the PFC goes into the tank a pale-somewhat dull yellow and comes out either bright yellow or yellow-green)

Step 13: Immediately after the bleach is poured out, fill the tank with HOT water, and pour it out.

Step 14: Pour in the correct amount of fixer, and repeat the fixing process. Agitate for 15 seconds, and then leave it sit for 5 minutes. At this point, fixation time is not crucial. This is the final fix bath, so you can not over-do it.

Step 15: Rinse the film, with WARM water, for 15 minutes.

Step 16: Use PhotoFlo, hang to dry.

Step 17: Cut your negatives and enjoy! You will need a high filter for prints as with any colour film. Likely, you will need a 4 or higher (I usually use a 5+). The film should be a brown-orange to dark orange colour. If it is a bright or light orange, you most likely over bleached.

*I have personally tried this with 100 speed, 400 speed, 800 speed, and 1000 speed colour films. It has worked with all of these, and should work with any speeds in between. You may find that if you use a slower or faster film you need to adjust the times.

*When printing, often, you will notice that the edges are dull and not well developed. IF you’re only making one or two prints, you can just burn the edges in. However, if you plan on making many prints, you can mix a small solution of PFC to fix this. Mix 1/8 tsp to 3/4 oz water. Place this in a small dixie cup, and use a q-tip to apply to the center of the negative. You will have to rub it in, then wipe it off, and repeat. You will notice the negative slowly lighten in the center. You may need to try this more than once, but the results are usually good. Of course, if you do this, you will need to fix the film once more (only for 2.5 minutes, agitating for only the first 15 seconds).

* I hope you’re happy with the results! If you have questions you can email them to: automaticshutter.n+crossprocess@gmail.com, or visit the ask page of my blog and leave your email.